Sample Report

^^^HIGHLAND HOME INSPECTIONS^^^

Sample Report

HIGHLAND HOME INSPECTIONS

Report prepared for:

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Enclosed is the inspection agreement and following report. Please review the checklist portion of the report and read all the narrative that accompanies. The narrative portion describes issues in detail and makes recommendations to correct or monitor the issue. The report also includes tips for maintaining your property. I hope these suggestions are helpful. If at any time you have any questions or concerns with the report or the property please contact Highland Home Inspections and I will be happy to help in any way that I can.

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Definitions of ratings:

Satisfactory: Indicates system or component is functional but may show signs of typical wear and deterioration.

Marginal: Indicates the system or component is functional but requires monitoring and repair or replacement may be necessary within the next five years.

Poor: Indicates the system or component will need repair or replacement now or in the very near future. Also may indicate a potential safety hazard.

N/A: Not Applicable

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Any directional information that may be given in the report, (right rear, left front, for example) is from the perspective of the street.

Exterior System

Visible Conditions

Type

Not Visible

N/A

Wall Cladding

Aluminum

Trim/Corner Boards

Aluminum

Eaves / Fascia / Soffit

Aluminum/wood(unpainted)

Entry Doors

Steel

Prime Windows

Vinyl replacement

Window Wells

Above grade

Patio Doors

Glass slider to deck

Garage Doors

Metal

Driveway / Walkways

Asphalt/Pavers-Cobblestone-concrete block

Steps /Stoops/Railings

Pressure treated wood

Porch / Balcony

Deck / Patio

Wood

Retaining Walls

Concrete garden block

Exterior Faucets

None noticed

Grading of Property:

Vegetation: Trim þ	OK ¨	Adequate Drainage? þ No ¨ Yes
Trees overhanging house
Wood Deterioration at:

Garage Door Opener: þ Stop ¨ None ¨ Reverse		Proper Riser Heights þ No ¨ Yes
		Location:
Limitations: ----------

Comments:

The property inspected is a two story, two-family attached dwelling. The house faces south. Some updating has been done to the property. I recommend information be obtained regarding the pulling of permits for the work completed. Information should be obtained from the building department in the town of Arlington.

The property is encircled by vertical wooded fencing. The middle section of fence is leaning outward. This section could eventually fall if it is not re-supported. I recommend installing a second support post to strengthen the fence.

The fascia board behind the aluminum siding has never been sealed. This wood could deteriorate if not properly sealed. I recommend that the fascia board be properly prepped and painted.

There were open risers at the stairs to the rear deck. This is a safety hazard. There is a potential for someone to get their foot caught in one of the steps while ascending the stairs. I recommend that risers be installed at these steps.

Trees and shrubs should not be planted too close to the building. Vegetation can damage the siding, the trim and the roof, and it can clog up the gutters. Overhanging tree limbs can invite ants, squirrels etc. on to the roof. Roots from trees planted too close to the building can cause damage to the foundation and sewer lines. Areas that are too shady do not allow the siding to dry out and mildew and moss can occur. I recommend that a landscape contractor remedy the situation.

The area around the driveway and the entry to the locked storage shed had wood strip retaining the bricks that was above grade and presented a trip hazard. Other miscellaneous stones and bricks also protruded from the ground and presented trip hazards. I recommend that these trip hazards be removed.

The service entrance cable ran through tree branches to the side of the house. These branches could come down in a storm and take the wires down with them. I recommend that the electric company be contacted and requested to trim back the tree branches

The basement windows were steel framed and rusting. These window frames should be scraped, primed and painted. One of the basement windows on the left side was cracked and should be replaced.

ROOF SYSTEM

Visible Conditions

Type

Not Visible

N/A

Inspection Method

Spyglass from ground and a ladder to the eaves

Roof Type/Slope

Hip/medium slope

#1 Roof Covering

Asphalt shingles-2 layers

#2 Roof Covering

Asphalt rolled roofing at deck

#3 Roof Covering

#4 Roof Covering

Valleys

Gutters

Aluminum

Downspouts

Aluminum

Extensions

None

Flashing

Lead at chimney

Skylights

#1 Chimney

Brick-open mortar spaces at top

#2 Chimney

Plumbing Vents

Cast iron

Ventilation

Screened vents-nesting birds

Signs of Leaks?

¨ No

þ Yes

Limitations: --------------

Comments:

Downspouts carry roof water to the ground and should have extensions that direct the water to an appropriate distance, 5 or 6 feet, from the foundation. If there are no downspouts, or if the extensions are too short, the roof water may eventually end up in the basement. I recommend that downspouts and extensions be installed to carry the water to an appropriate distance from the house.

. The shingles were worn, cupping and quite dry. The roof covering on this house is asphalt shingles, which typically last between 15 and 25 years. The shingles were worn, cupping and quite dry. There were two layers of shingles on this roof. Upon replacement both layers of shingles will have to be stripped off and a new layer applied directly over the roof sheathing adding to the cost of the roof replacement. The roof is nearing the end of its functional life. I recommend that estimates be obtained for replacing the roof. The roof on the adjacent unit is also nearing the end its useful life and it may be less expensive if both roofs are replaced at the same time. You may want to discuss this with the owners of the next door unit.

There were open mortar joints between the bricks on the chimney. The chimney needs re-pointing. Re-pointing is a process where the old grout between the brick or stone is scraped out and new mortar is applied. I recommend that a mason re-point the chimney.

The chimney cap -- a beveled layer of concrete applied to the top of the chimney to promote proper water runoff -- was decayed. There were cracks in the cap. Water may enter these cracks, freeze in cold weather, and cause further damage. I recommend that a masonry contractor repair this cap.

There was a hole in the gutter area where the two neighboring units’ roofs joined on the west side of the house. Pests such as squirrels, birds, other rodents could enter and nest in there. I recommend that this hole be filled and closed.

STRUCTURAL Systems

Visible Conditions

Type

Not Visible

N/A

Foundation

Concrete block

Floors

Poured concrete

Walls

Wood framed

Columns

Beams/Girders

Wood

Sills

Wood

Joists

Wood

Ceilings

Rafters/trusses

Wood-visible in attic

Sheathing

Wood-visible in attic

Wood Deterioration at:

Crawl Space Entered? ¨ No ¨ Yes	Attic Entered? þ No ¨ Yes

Water Penetration? ¨ No þ Yes	Condensation? ¨ No þ Yes

Limitations: ----------

Comments:

Not a lot of the structure was visible. What was visible appeared to be in satisfactory condition.

HEATING Systems

Visible Conditions

Type of Heat:

Forced hot air

Type of Fuel:

Heating oil

Distribution:

Ductwork

Type

Not Visible

N/A

Burner

Forced air burner

Flue Pipe

Galvanized steel

Chimney Connect

Furnace cemented to chimney

Fuel Supply

New oil line

Thermostat

Manual-single zone

Distribution

Ductwork-dirty

Blower/Pump

Filter

Two- low quality

T/Pressure Relief Valve

High Limit Safety

Low Water Cut-Off

Functional?

þ No

¨ Yes

Unusual Conditions?

¨ No

þ Yes

Limitations: --------------

MAKE:	Metromatic		SERIAL #	AR-728149
			MODEL#	LB-84
APPROXIMATE AGE:		5-6 yrs.	CAPACITY:	84.000 BTU/HR

Comments:

The furnace was relatively new and fired up as it should. The filter at the air handler was very low quality. I recommend that the filter be upgraded to a pleated paper filter. The filter should be changed twice a year.

The chimney clean-out had a dead bird and other debris in it. This should be cleaned out. The chimney was lined but the flue tile liner was spalling and in poor condition. This happens when moisture gets into the masonry, freezes, and causes the outer layer of the masonry to chip off. The inner softer portion of the masonry is then exposed to the elements.

These conditions can lead to possible leaks of combustion gases entering into the living space of the dwelling. I recommend that a stainless liner be installed in the chimney.

I also recommend that a carbon monoxide detector be installed on the bedroom(2^nd) floor at eye level.

The heating ducts appeared to be quite dirty. It was disclosed that the current owners have several pets and the dander from the pets gets into everything including the ductwork. I recommend that a duct cleaning company clean the ductwork in the house.

The way the ductwork was arranged in the house is an outdated configuration. The return ducts were close to the outside wall and the supply ducts were closer to the centers of the rooms. This is opposite from the way the ductwork is installed today. This can create cool spots and uneven heating throughout the house. If interior work is planned for a future date moving some of the duct should be considered in this planning.

The heat in the 2^nd floor bathroom enters in the vanity and a duct was installed in the side of the vanity. Some heat comes out through the register in the side of the vanity but most of the heat remains in the vanity. An HVAC technician should properly install the heat register in this bathroom.

Air conditioning System

Visible Conditions
Type of Cooling	None
Type of Fuel
Distribution

	Type	S	M	P	Not Visible	N/A
Exterior Casing		¨	¨	¨	¨	¨
Exterior Fins		¨	¨	¨	¨	¨
Electrical Disconnect		¨	¨	¨	¨	¨
Ref Line/Insulation		¨	¨	¨	¨	¨
Interior Ducts		¨	¨	¨	¨	¨
Condensate Drain		¨	¨	¨	¨	¨
Thermostat		¨	¨	¨	¨	¨

Functional?		¨ No ¨ Yes

Unusual Conditions?		¨ No ¨ Yes

Limitations:

CONDENSER MAKE:		SERIAL #

APPROXIMATE AGE:	yrs.	MODEL #

Comments:

PLUMBING System

Visible Conditions

Type

Not Visible

N/A

Water Main

Copper

Water Main Shut Off Valve

Gate valve

Supply Pipes

Copper

Waste Pipes

Cast iron/VC

Pressure

Drainage

Vents

Cast iron through roof

Sump Pump/Discharge

Fuel Shut Off Valve

Water Heater

Fuel Supply/Pipe

Electricity

Flue Pipe

Chimney Connect

Casing

Temp Control

Relief Valve?

þ No

¨ Yes

Cross Connection?

¨ No

þ Yes

Leaks?

¨ No

þ Yes

Static Water Pressure:

Not tested PSI

Limitations ---------------------

MAKE:	A. O. Smith		SERIAL #	99-0064988-SS4
			MODEL#	PES-40
APPROXIMATE AGE:		5-6 yrs.	CAPACITY:	40 Gals

Comments:

The main water shut off valve was an older gate valve. These valves often stick or break after they haven’t been operated for many years. I recommend that a licensed plumber install a ball valve just above the water meter.

Electric water heaters do not have the recovery time that oil or gas fired water heaters have. Because of this electric water heaters are usually larger to keep up with the demand. I recommend that the supply of hot water be monitored, and if found to be inadequate then a larger tank should be installed.

The bathroom sink off the kitchen was plumbed in such a tight space that the required three inches of drain pipe from the P-trap was eliminated making the sink drain essentially an S-trap instead a the required P-trap. An S-trap can allow water to suction straight down and remove the water in the trap allowing sewage gases into the room. I recommend that a licensed plumber repair this sink drain.

The sink in the 2^nd floor bathroom sink was not properly installed. It was not centered on the vanity, not connected to the wall or vanity and the faucet is loose. I recommend that a licensed plumber properly re-install this sink.

Electrical System

Visible Conditions

Type

Not Visible

N/A

Service Entry

Overhead-enters through tree branches

Meter

In basement-extra meter

Main Conductor

Aluminum with anti-oxidant paste

Main Panel

In basement

Sub Panel

In kitchen cabinet-difficult access

Main Disconnect

At main panel

Grounding

Water main

Bushings/Knock Outs

Branch Circuits

Ground wires not visible

Exterior Electrical

Exposed Wiring

Garage Electrical

Wires not in conduit

Breakers or fuses sized properly per the wires they protected?

þ No

¨ Yes

GFCIs Functional?

¨ No

þ Yes

Knob & Tube Wiring?

¨ No

þ Yes

Are overload devices, breakers or fuses, rated for aluminum? (Where applicable)

þ No

¨ Yes

Functional Smoke Alarms?

¨ No

¨ Yes

**Obtain certificate at closing

Limitations: -------------------

Comments:

Branch Circuits: 4@ 240-Volts; 5@ 120-Volts ?

Sub-panel 7@120-Volts

This house was equipped with a sixty amp electrical service; by today’s standards this is inadequate. I recommend that a licensed electrician install an upgraded service.

The way the entrance wires entered the building, the meter and the main panel was unconventional. There were two meters. One was operating and one was not. It raised questions as to whether the unit next door was receiving their power metered through the unit inspected. I recommend that this be further investigated by either a competent licensed electrician or contact with the electric company.

The sub-panel was located in a kitchen cabinet behind a shelf. This is a poor choice for locating the panel due to its inaccessibility. The branch conductors in this panel had no ground wires inside the panel. This is unusual. I recommend that a qualified electrician inspect the electrical system in this house.

The GFCI outlet at the kitchen counter was not operating properly. The outlet in the upstairs bathroom was not a GFCI outlet. Electrical outlets within 6 feet of water and in the garage and basement should be equipped with Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI). GFCIs detect the amperage flow going through the outlet. If this flow changes as little as .005 amps, the outlet will trip. These outlets should be tested on a monthly basis. I recommend that a licensed electrician install GFCIs where needed. These outlets should be repaired by a licensed electrician.

Interior Systems

Visible Conditions

Not Visible

N/A

Kitchen/Dining

Walls/Ceiling

Metal lath and plaster

Floor

Vinyl tile

Cabinets

Painted wood

Counters

Formica

Sink

Plumbing

Electrical

GFCI -outlet not working

Door/Window

Heat Source

Bathroom #1 Off kitchen

Walls/Ceiling

Metal lath and plaster

Floor

Vinyl tile

Vanity/Basin

S-trap

Tub/Shower

Toilet

Plumbing

S-trap

Electrical

Door/Window

Heat Source

Bathroom #2 2^nd floor

Walls/Ceiling

Plaster board

Floor

Ceramic tile

Vanity/Basin

Loose sink and faucet

Tub/Shower

Toilet

Plumbing

Electrical

No GFCI outlet

Door/Window

In tub/shower

Heat Source

Not properly vented in room

Interior Systems (Con’t)

Visible Conditions

Not Visible

N/A

Living Room

Walls/Ceiling

Metal lath and plaster

Floor

Wood

Electrical

Door/Window

Heat Source

Bedroom (Master)

Walls/Ceiling

Plaster

Floor

Wood

Electrical

Door/Window

Entrance door sticks

Heat Source

Bedroom (#2)

Walls/Ceiling

Floor

Electrical

Door/Window

Entrance door sticks

Heat Source

Interior Systems (Con’t)

Laundry

Proper Laundry Hook-up?

þ No

¨ Yes

Dryer:

¨ Electric

þ Gas

Leaks?

¨ No

þ Yes

Location? Basement

Condensation?

¨ No

þ Yes

Location? Basement

Do Steps, Balconies and Railings Need Repair?

þ No

¨ Yes

Proper Riser Heights?

þ No

¨ Yes

House/Garage/ "Party" Separation Surfaces Complete?

þ No

¨ Yes

Signs of water penetration?

¨ No

þ Yes

Limitations: ------------

Comments:
The on/off valves that control the washer are regular spigot valves. It is recommended that the lines to the washer be turned off after every use. Therefore, I recommend a single lever valve be installed so that both hot and cold water is controlled by one lever. I also recommend that the rubber washer fill lines be upgraded to stainless steel lines, as these have a much longer life span.

The doors entering both bedrooms did not fully close. These doors should be repaired by a qualified handyman.

Insulation and ventilation system

Visible Conditions

Type

Not Visible

N/A

Insulation

Vermiculite-in attic

Attic Vents

Old screen-nests

Foundation Vents

Windows

Kitchen Vents

Re-circulating fan

Bath Vents

To exterior

Dryer Vents

To exterior

Limitations:

Comments:

Vermiculite may possibly contain asbestos. I recommend that the vermiculite insulation in the attic be tested for asbestos.

There were bird nests in the attic. These nests should be removed and any access for birds or other pests be closed off.

I recommend answers to the following questions be obtained from the seller; these questions are mandated by the Commonwealth of Massachusetts.

(1) What is the history of water penetration in basement and/or crawl space?
(2) Is the dwelling on a public or private sewage system?
(3) Has the dwelling been tested for radon gas?
(4) Has the dwelling been inspected for insect infestation?
(5) Has the dwelling been previously inspected by a home inspector, and if so, is the seller willing to disclose the report?
(6) Is there an underground fuel storage tank on the property?

The items listed below are the major issues with the property in the opinion of Highland Home Inspections. This list does not include all the items discussed in the report nor should it be considered a substitute for the report.

Safety Issues:

All electrical issues

Trip hazards at driveway/shed

Items to be repaired/replaced in the near future:

Roof

Hole-west side gutter

Items to be repaired/replaced in the next five years:

Upstairs bathroom sink

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Send mail to david@highlandhomeinspections.com with questions or comments about this web site. Copyright © 2005 HIGHLAND HOME INSPECTIONS Last modified: 12/06/05

Send mail to david@highlandhomeinspections.com with questions or comments about this web site.
Copyright © 2005 HIGHLAND HOME INSPECTIONS
Last modified: 12/06/05